somewhere over the rainbow

Yesterday I did a ten-hour round trip from Bolzano to Munich to collect the founder of the EUYO from the airport. On the way back we met a storm - and then this spectacular double rainbow.

bowled over by bolzano

I must admit, I was dreading my journey to Bolzano. With an 8am plane to catch, followed by a bus and then numerous hours sat on a train, I had resolved to sleep through the struggle. My attention was soon diverted, however, by a magnificent sight:  vineyards. Miles upon miles of the things. They surrounded me on both sides of the train, and sprawled right the way across to the Alps. As I contemplated the weeks of wine-filled merriment that lay ahead, suddenly I didn’t seem so tired anymore…

The prospect of a bountiful stay didn’t end there. When we arrived at the hotel, another member of staff said, “I need a spritz.” I suggested we met back in reception after a quick shower, and my ignorance was promptly set straight. Here, a spritz has nothing to do with freshening up. Rather, a spritz is a concoction of Aperol, Prosecco and soda water, garish orange in colour and wonderfully easy to drink. The shower could certainly wait; this was heaven.

Piazza Walther: the perfect Spritz-sipping spot

And it didn’t stop there. Dinner was a luscious spread of tomato-laden bruschetta, monstrous mounds of buffalo mozzarella, perfectly sweet melon and parma ham, and spaghetti with seafood (or rather seafood with spaghetti, given the amount of critters gracing my plate). When I asked for parmesan to accompany the spaghetti, I was reprimanded by my waiter, who firmly contested that I eat it without. He was absolutely right. I struggled to suppress gasps of glee at every bite. Rolling into bed, I made a mental note to pace myself – I have six weeks of such meals ahead – and blissfully nodded off.

The following morning, before I had time to remember this intended self-control, I had somehow managed to pile my plate high with Apfelstrudel, Sachertorte, plum cakes, and mounds of fresh berries. A ridiculously rich chocolate concoction also appeared to have found its way into my cup. Rather than dwell on this mysterious appearance, I gave in. I couldn’t let such delicious treats go to waste now, could I?

Remembering that I risked looking like the plump, juicy tomatoes I was gorging on (not to mention the 35-degree heat outside), I resolved to walk off the indulgence. Bolzano is a charming, compact town, filled with cobbled lanes lined with alfresco cafes, individual boutiques and market stalls – as well as plenty of gelaterias and pasticcherias that threatened to thwart my virtuous efforts. A considerable amount of personal strength was required to overcome to urge to purchase basketfuls of pretty chocolates, bags of dried fruit and nuts, and even a cake made of gummy bears. Fortunately, I managed to distract myself momentarily with quirky hat and shoe displays and a boutique selling beautiful traditional Dirndln.

Market stalls, pretty cafes and boutiques

Gummi bear cakes, huge chocolate shops, Bolzano's Hotel Sacher outpost, inviting assortments of cakes...

Another gratuitous observation provided the perfect excuse I needed to carry on chowing down cakes, cannoli and other confections – Bolzano is a town beloved by bikers. Tomorrow I’m going to collect one to hire and, hopefully, burn off some bruschetta whilst exploring some more. But in the meantime, I’ve got a spaghetti supper awaiting me downstairs…

clooney in como

Or so I wished. I did ask the tour guide to point out his residence, but it was in a secluded area and so, alas, I never got to meet Mr. Clooney in person.

Nevertheless, we found plenty of other lovely things to do in Como, including a city tour, relaxing in our gorgeous hotel, and eating more cannoli, of course.

Gosia and me outside our picturesque hotel

oh hello bergamo

Yet ANOTHER stunning Italian city. Apparently Bergamo is where the savvy Milanese go for the weekend - less touristy but just as gorgeous.

The food here is sensational - huge portions of melon with parma ham, slices from giant pizzas with every topping imaginable, Grom ice cream (divine), dinky pastries from cute bakeries hidden down tiny cobbled alleyways, and a lovely dinner at Le Iris.



magnificent milan

Next stop was gorgeous Milan, where we visited spectacular shops selling opulent jewelled gloves and masks and marvelled at all the beautiful people tottering down the boutique-lined streets in their stiletto heels.

The Duomo - I could quite happily get married here...

I discovered an beautiful pasticceria called Bastianello where white and gold-clad waiters served pretty cakes , ice creams and pastries, all decorated to perfection. The Easter eggs were works of art - almost (but not quite) too gorgeous to eat.

Amarena in Ravenna

After a non-stop week we had a few days' despite in glorious Ravenna.

Beautiful sunset as we arrived on the coach

The sunshine was perfect weather for wandering around the gorgeous mosaics, doing window shopping, visiting Dante's tomb, relaxing on the beach, and drinking Spritzes whilst people-watching in pavement cafés.

 My dream dress

 Dante's tomb

 

Concert at Teatro Alighieri

 Stunning mosaics

Cartwheeling on the beach

We ate gelato (the Amarena, Cannella and Fico flavours were to die for), melt-in-the-mouth scallops and handmade cannoli from cute bakeries, and enjoyed a fabulous staff dinner of cheese souffle with candied figs followed by John Dory with a flaked almond crust with sweet and sour orange sauce )washed down with plenty of vino bianco, of course).

Gorgeous hairstyle courtesy of my lovely Dutch friend Tessel

If only every meal ended with handmade fig ice cream from a gelateria...