a passage to india

Despite the evident homage to India in Chanel's pre-autumn/winter 2012-13 collection - rich metallic shades, jewel-studded saris, embroidered fabrics - I couldn't help but think that the beautifully-clothed models wouldn't go amiss as angels decorating a Christmas tree (alongside a resplendent feast for optimum festive indulgence, of course).

Decorations from Monsoon, Accessorize, Paperchase, Vinegar Hill and Harrods.

seaside chic

This season, designers seem to have been splashing about in the spirit of the sea - blue hues, shell embellishments and mermaid styles abound.

Missoni's collection evoked ocean waves through vivid blues and exaggerated frills, topped with matching blue-rimmed sunglasses.

Salvatore Ferragamo and Emanuel Ungaro presented slick swimsuits paired with billowing silk scarves in dazzling shades of turquoise, indigo and aqua.

There were more gorgeous turquoise shades on show at Chloe:

Giorgio Armani's models were sent down a blue-grey catwalk wearing iridescent styles that shimmered like the sea.

Aquilano.Rimondi's models were like mermaids fresh from the sea, with hair still wet and beautifully embellished pastel blue and shell coloured dresses.

Dazzling blue embellishment and billowing waves of chiffon were also order of the day at Elie Saab:

Chanel's water nymphs had glimmering pearls in their hair and sparkling, dewy faces fresh from the sea, whilst shell clutches and translucent sequins and beads accessorized pastel swimwear and beautiful dresses.

However much I had fallen in love with Chanel's collection, Alexander McQueen's took my breath away. Freshly caught mermaids retained their sparkling nets over their faces and wore fishtail skirts and rippling corseted jackets in shades of coral, shell and sea blue. Absolutely gorgeous.

sailing to byzantium

One wrote artistic poems for the divided Irish nation. The other designs beautiful clothing for a luxurious market. Despite their differences, for both Yeats and Lagerfeld, the allure of Byzantium has a strong influence in their work:

Once out of nature I shall never take
My bodily form from any natural thing,
But such a form as Grecian goldsmiths make
Of hammered gold and gold enamelling
To keep a drowsy Emperor awake;
Or set upon a golden bough to sing
To lords and ladies of Byzantium
Of what is past, or passing, or to come.

William Butler Yeats, 'Sailing to Byzantium', 1926



I really admire how Karl Lagerfeld has maintained Chanel's heritage in his Pre-Fall 2011 Métiers d'Art collection - the black and white palette, tweed, lace - whilst giving it a Byzantine-inspired twist.

"Inspiration is not a copy but a starting point...taking us somewhere new." Not usually a fan of the fashion pack's fustian descriptions, but I suppose that in relation to how he applies this Turkish decadence to Chanel's traditional style, Lagerfeld might actually have a point here.